Florence post Covid

Crazy months we are experiencing now convinced me that it's better to learn about the historical events from the books rather than living them.

The current crisis deeply changed Florence and has a profound impact on our lives.

We might say that the Coronavirus exposed all the fragilities and rendered tangible the critical situation of the Italian historical cities. Many of the problems we are now facing existed before, but were invisibile, covered by the blanket of well-oiled economical machine.

Italian historical cities, such as Florence, Rome or Venice need inhabitants, now more than ever. People need to return to live these unique places and tourism has to become more sustainable.

This is why I promote and I will promote slow tourism. I will encourage everybody to visit Tuscany without rush, engaging in dialogue with its history and art during my private expert-led tours in Florence.

Be respectful! Travel slowly!

Once upon a time in Cefalù

Peep into the Past, Cefalù, Italy, January 2018.

Living in Italy you simply breath the past. It is everywhere, at every corner. 

Nevertheless, it sometimes happens that you pass by an old, closed church, and to look inside you can only peep through the keyhole. 

And if there was a keyhole to look inside us? What would we find there? 

Reflections

It has been a while since I haven't post here anything... 

How many things has happened since 2012... 

In 2013 I moved in with Alessandro, in 2016 I finished my PhD and... we got married last December. 

In this continuous hustle and bustle I had little time for photography. 

I kept taking some black and white photographs with my Mamiya but in the meantime my scanner became obsolete so I can't share anything with you. 

I hope to buy a new scanner next year, so my black and white photography will return here. 

But... 

For our wedding my lovely parents-in-law gave us a really great brand new digital camera - Olympus OM-D E-M10II. So since last December I am having fun with it. 

And here for you my first picture I really like. It was taken in Amsterdam, in the museum of the house church called Our Lord in the Attic. I was there to prepare for a tour I will run next year focused on Dutch painting. 

This beautiful chandelier brings to my mind paintings by Dutch and Flemish masters, always so attentive towards the details and fascinated by beautiful objects and furniture. When one looks at their art, it almost seams that the artists had fun in painting all the reflections of windows and light on various objects represented in their images. 

I have in mind for example Jan Van Eyck's portrait of Arnolfini family kept today in the National Gallery in Lodon with this unique detail of reflection painted in the mirror behind the couple. 

Oh, I love the Northern artists! 

Chandelier, Our Lord in the Attic, Amsterdam, September 2018.

Do your backpack and go

The most difficult step to do when you plan a travel is to take the decision about the departure. 

Istanbul was my dream since many years. I haven't been on a proper holiday since a long time and Istanbul was always on the first place on my traveling list. 

Or better.. I wanted to go to Constantinople... 

So this year I decided to go no matter what was happening around. I was lucky because also one of my Guggie-friends, Ruth, had the same dream. 

We took the tickets and we met in Istanbul. 

Istanbul is a fever. To arrive there in the evening meant to go through the city that was just waking up; lights, neons, people everywhere, all shops were open, people were wondering around, laughing and talking. 

When we entered to the hard of the old part of Istanbul I felt like in Paris. The streets became narrow and hilly. Down there, in front of us, we could glimpse the Golden Horn. 

It all seemed quite magical.

We felt this magic atmosphere when we were walking for the first time through the streets of Istanbul, so desired and expected with anxiety.

The day after it didn't take us a lot to decide what we were suppose to do.

There was only one place we could go: Hagia Sophia.

The dream of every art historian, the myth, the heart of Constantinople. 

Our hostel was very close to the Sultanahmet and all the most important monuments. We arrived to the church after five minutes walk, we joined the queue and soon after we could admire the interior of the monument. 

We entered and we immediately saw the space, vast and open, with thousands of veils, arches and columns, dividing and opening it at the same time. I think this space organization of the church was the reason why Muslims decided to adapt it into a mosque. The idea of was very similar to the Muslim habit of veiling, hiding, looking through.

Once entered you wonder around and slowly get familiar with the place. 

And then you start to understand how strong the Muslim imprint on the entire church is, how many things did not survive to our time, how many mosaics we can't see. Walls, once covered with shiny tesseras are all painted in a strange ochre colour. 

There is no trace of the altars or other decorations. The church seems to be rather a shadow of the great Hagia Sophia. 

The mosaics that survived are incredibly beautiful. The angel above the presbytery shows so many traces of the Roman painting. The mosaic with Christ, Virgin Mary and Saint John the Baptist is just indescribably touching. I simply couldn't stop looking in Christ eyes. 

We spent more then two hours in the church, walking, observing, breathing, experiencing the space because Hagia Sophia is an experience. 

Hagia Sophia, August 2012

Firenze Santa Maria Novella

I was planing to do those pictures for months even before I got my new camera last year. 

This building attires me since I first came to Florence. I admire it especially during the night when the light underlines the architecture, its geometry and plasticity. Thanks to a strong contrast between the shades and the lights it is possible to see clearly the line of the building. All neons are shining brightly and the station is almost empty. This is when the architecture plays the main role. 

Often from people who come to Florence I hear many complains about Firenze Santa Maria Novella. They find the station not inviting at all, anonymous and silent. They remain indifferent to it.

Me instead I adore this building, every detail, all the surroundings: the station itself, the platforms, the waiting room, the Palazzina Reale from the side of Piazza Adua. I agree that the station is not in very good conditions (as most of the train stations in Europe). Moreover, it is in continuous restoration like many, many, many buildings in Florence, but still, I simply love it. 

I remember surprised faces of the people that were looking at me with suspect when I was taking pictures. Many asked me: "What is beautiful here?". 

Nothing. Or maybe everything?

A bit of history?

The station was built between 1933 and 1935 by Gruppo Toscano with Giovanni Michelucci as the leader. The aim was to unify the new station with the historical outlook of Piazza dell'Unità and the Santa Maria Novella Church in front of it. It explains the use of pietra forte on the outside of the station from that side. It is one of the greatest examples of rationalism in Italian architecture. 

For you from me Santa Maria Novella train station:

Santa Maria Novella station, June 2012.

Memories from Durham

When I'm telling people that I'm doing my PhD everybody, especially those who did their studies some time before, are telling me that I am living the time of my life. And actually it's true. Even if sometimes it is not easy but I truly love my studies. I am particularly grateful that I could meet all those wonderful people who are studying with me at the University, my colleagues and all that I've met last winter. 

Durham being a tiny small town pushes students into passing their time together because there are not so many choices of spending free time. 

Moreover passing time with my colleagues was fun so we were doing many things together: going for trips outside Durham, going to the swimming pool together, hanging out in the evenings and admiring Durham evening fashion and so on. 

The pictures that I put here I made on a Sunday during an autumn walk with Lorenzo and Giulio. It was during Lumiere festival in Durham so I photographed some of the installations that during the evenings where colorfully illuminated. 

Guys did also some other pictures... I can only say that falling autumn leaves were a great inspiration for their creativity. Undoubtedly that we had great fun. I don't remember when I was laughing so much as on that day! 

Voyageur, Durham 2011. 

I love Durham, Durham market place 2011.

Durham Cathedral, Durham 2011.

...following the white rabbit...

When you do your research in art history it is very easy for you to loose all the passion you have for art. Art for an art historian has to become an extremely rational issue. You deal with commissioners, social background of the artistic production, exchange between different centres, iconography, style, school and so on. And then you forget why actually a work of art attired you attention. You don't see the work of art anymore but you see all that surrounds it.

On one hand I like it because I become more and more conscious of what I'm seeing. On the other hand sometimes I want to forget that art is actually my profession. In those moments I just go to see an exhibition (likely of contemporary art). Looking at the works of art I have never seen before I move my imagination just to remember myself that in the end to believe in art you have to have the courage of a child who sees a white rabbit and decides to follow it. 

Piazza Santa Croce, Firenze 2012.